How to care for azalia.

Winter months do not indulge in bright colors and sunny days, so it is now that blooming azalsa on store shelves produce such an indelible impression. However, these beauties firmly entrusted to the glory of "disposable" plants or plants-bouquets. Nevertheless, messages from flower lovers about successful growing at home, including and Dutch seedlings. Let's try to figure out the main mistakes allowed when leaving these plants, and understand their basic requirements.
First meeting
When buying it is important to pay attention to the appearance of the potted plant. Copies in dense buds at home bloom worse (there is a lack of light outside the window), part of the buds will not reveal. Leaves must be healthy, bright. The sale of Azaleas comes in the cold season and, although the plants are home-diving, the temperature is below 0 degrees, they are not transferred.
Temperature
After purchasing Azalia, contain in a cool bright place. Optimal air temperature - + 14-18 degrees. However, from my own experience I can say that Azalea bought in the fall is well winter and bloom all the cold season on a warmed loggia at a temperature of +3 degrees. With a slight frost, even up to -0.5 degrees. Within one night, the plants die. Summer temperatures should be within 20-25 degrees.
Best soil
Azalea grows only on acidic soils. The basis for the substrate is a sphagnum peat with pH 4-4.5. A semi-proverse pine chew is added to it. However, such a substrate is poor nutritional elements. The best result in my practice was achieved during the cultivation of a sphagnum peat in a substrate, semi-proxulated pine needles and sheet humor (1: 0.5: 1). The mixture is lightweight, water and

breathable.
Podcord
For the summer, its azaleas feed every 7-10 days. Plants are sensitive to the lack of N, Ca, FE, SI and excess to, MD, MP, V. Vereskovy fertilize physiologically acidic mineral fertilizers (10 liters of water take 21.5 g of ammonium sulfate, 8.3 g of superphosphate, 6.3 g sulcitance of potassium). Good results are obtained with the joint use of solutions of mineral fertilizers and physiologically active substances, especially during the period of adaptation: 5 g of ammonium nitrate, 100 g of glucose or sucrose, 0.7-1 ggteeroacum-syna, 5 gaskorbic acid on the water.
Transfer
With a cold content (purchase in the fall) with a transplantation, you can simply stand and even give the plant to the plant. But I would recommend to transplant immediately acquired in the spring. In one pot, as a rule, it happens to four copies. It is better to divide them and sear.
I shared, tearing off with an earthen one (neatly stretched to the sides). Transplanted plants irrigated, put in the shaded place, covering the polyethylene package. Everyone was taken out. Pots for Azali take wide, but not deep, since the root system is superficial. When landing in deep pots need high drainage. In no case can not shock the root neck.
Not just watering
An important moment in the cultivation of Azali - watering. Watering need acidic (ideally - soft) water. It is necessary to know the value of the water pH in its locality. For example, in Minsk it ranges from 7 to 9 units. With such values, acidification must be regular. Several crystals of citric acid will not change the pH.

To determine the amount of acidifier (lemon and acetic acid are most available) you need to buy a lactium paper. Initially, determine the required volume of the acidifier per liter of tap water (using a lactium paper to bring pH to 4-4.5). I give acidified water to stand for days.
Periodically check the acidity of the soil and in pots. The result is healthy plants. With regard to the watering method there is no clear certainty. Belgian specialists are advised to water from the pallet, Russian - from above. I water my azaleas from above. When tubing, the pot can be immersed in water. However, it is important to know: the soil should be moderately wet, irrigated - regular.
Humidity
In the homeland of Azaleas inhabit the wet mountain forests in the atmosphere of permanent fogs, drizzling rains and relative coolness. Therefore, air humidity for room azaleas should be high. When keeping on a glazed loggia, I wake up without spraying.
Attitude towards light
Straight sunlight is harmful in summer. But with a low illumination of Azalea blooming badly. In the coolness (+ 3-10 degrees.) They do not require shocking, but when the temperature is raised, additional lighting is desirable. Fighting lamps are suitable. The length of the day should be 12 hours.
For the summer, pots can be placed on fresh air: to stick in the garden in the garden. After the summer holidays in the open soil, even the weakest plants come to normal and bloom.
Diseases and pests
On the plant love to settle the wave, whiteberry, ticks and trips. But on their plants, I did not observe these pests, since at a temperature of + 3-10 degrees, they are inactive.
A greater danger to the plant is root rot and fusarious wilting. In order to prevent prevention, it is necessary to observe Agrotechnik: Carefully water, avoiding the convergence (especially under reduced temperatures), mainly the optimal value of the pH of the soil, avoid overheating in the summer, not to overflow nitrogen. If diseases occur, they spray with systemic fungicides.
Shining
Breaks are best rooted with five-six-month plants. Take young robust shoots of the first or second order.
The vegetative growth of Azaliy is associated with a long lighting day (16 hours), with a short plant goes into the generative phase, which causes aging-shoots. Regulators of growth are positively affected by rooting. However, heteroa-texin is not effective enough, the best results can be obtained by using succinic acid.
The temperature of the substrate necessary for rooting is + 20-22 degrees., And the ambient air is 3-4 degrees. below. The soil was heated the incandescent lamp in a special drainage, made of two boxes. In the bottom drawer strengthened the lamp, the second box with a mesh bottom, in which the substrate was poured for rooting. From above, the construction covered with a transparent film.
The cuttings cut a length of 5-8 cm. Removal of two or three lower sheets, landing into a sphagnum peat to a depth of 1 -2 cm and watering. Substrators for rooting support in a wet, but not wet SOS / olion. The formation of roots takes 70-90 days. The need for the growth of cuttings increases the need for light and fresh air. Their crown form the september, removing the top with three or four young leaves.
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