How to choose roses saplings, thu, lilac

First of all, the buyer pays attention to the size of a seedling and very often tries to choose the largest and branchy. This is mistake. Large, highly developed plants whose age exceeds 1 year, as a rule, slowly coming up. A strong healthy annual medium-sized seedling will easily overtake them in growth. No need to rush to another extreme: the smallest and cheap copies are most often only recently rooted cuttings. In a fairly strong and attractive plant, they will turn back yet soon. The acquired seedling must have medium sizes and age one year.
A plant suitable for these parameters must be carefully examined by starting from the root system. In plants that are sold in containers, an earthen comes should not be easily removed from the tank. If this happens, it means that the seedlock was recently taken from the open soil and in his mind until it is impossible to determine how successful there was a transplant. A thick single root, sprouted through the bottom of the container (or a hole in it), is a signal that the plant lacks nutrients or is in close capacity for too long. A good feature is a plurality of small white or light roots that makebind through the walls of the container or tightly flourishing earthen comes in it. About the good rooting of the plant says wet soil with a slight green flaw from algae. Buying a seedling without a container, check that the earthen comes are quite large, dense, wet and firmly joined. If the roots are tested through the loosely stretched wrapper material, it means that the soil under it, most likely dried and, possibly, long ago. The root system should be well developed, strongly branched, with a large number of thin roots ending with white or light roots. These plants have a lot of land on the roots.
Saplings with large long small bare roots are better not to buy, because the nutrition and water from the soil plant absorbs through small thin roots. Long roots when landing are usually clipped or even partially removed: it contributes to the development of the absorbing part of the root system.
When buying seedlings of a deciduous species of early spring and especially late fall, it is necessary to navigate only on the state of shoots. They can only be one or two, but well-affected, weathered. When flexing, such an escape first makes a crunch, and then breaks. Unbearable shoots are well bend, not breaking. In winter, they freeze or spare.
By purchasing an evergreen shrub or leaf falling in the season of vegetation, pay attention to the state of foliage: its coloring, the presence of healthy swelling kidneys or normal edges in leaves. Choose bushes are not too thickened and not having traces of recent trimming (perhaps removed patients or damaged parts). Carefully check if there are no symptoms of diseases (for example, pulse dew on the leaves of the honeysuckle) and pests.
In grafted seedlings - it can be roses and lilac - very important place of vaccinations. The best plants are those in which the diameter of the root neck is higher and below the place of vaccination is the same, and the roots are lower than the vaccination location do not have frisches or traces of its removal. If the root neck is very fat below the vaccination location, and the shoots of the grafted culture are weak, then the wild root system (inhibition) will be angry with a varietal plant (brought) and in the end will suppress it. In fresh, not dried seedlings, the bark on the finite branches is usually smooth. With the root scratching, the upper dark layer is easily moving, and juice glitters on a yellowish or white scratch.
How to be if the seedlock is still dried? To save it, before landing or touching for the winter, if the weather allows, the plant is placed in the pit, it is plentifully watered and cheered by a wet loose land. In 5-10 days, if the procedure has passed successfully, you will notice that the saplings are green and swollen kidney, and the bark acquired a healthy appearance. In the event that the land in the garden is already frozen, the filled seedlings are immersed on a day in a cold water container, and then to spring are kept in the basement or a temperature of 3-0 ° with a wet sand, sawdust, crushed peat or loose ground . Very strongly filtered plants can be tried to revive, falling asleep them in the pit wet sawdust (at a height of 30 cm) and the adhesion of another 15-20 cm old straw or hay.
The landing time depends on the characteristics of the climate and the requirements of a kind of shrub. In southern regions, they usually plant in October-November. In the middle lane and in the north of Russia - early spring, as soon as it hits and the soil will slow down. The autumn landing is allowed, in two or three weeks before the onset of frosts. The seedlings acquired later in the late fall, since when landing is awful, they will not have time to root up to the first frosts.
Proper touch
Do not cheese seedlings related to bundles. Place them in one row, roots to roots, branches to branches. The roots and the bottom of the stems (root cake) are placed in a groove of a depth of 20-30 cm.
Plants in the ranks are located at an angle to the surface of the soil. The angle should not exceed 20 -25 degrees. Scped seedlings throw the ground with a layer of 20-40 cm.
Inspection and trimming of seedlings in front of the touch are produced only in a closed room (so as to move less in the wind).
After trimming the roots, they need to suck them into a liquid mixture of fresh cow manure and clay (1: 3) and immediately shook.
You can check not only in the garden, but also in the basement, shed, cold greenhouse. In this case, only roots and root cakes are immersed to the ground.
On a note:

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